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Go Back   Lampwork Etc. > Library > Tips, Techniques, and Questions

Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2017-09-17, 5:48am
Chel826 Chel826 is offline
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Default Stringer Help

Please help. I have been practicing my stringer application. I get it applied and it is glowing a bit and the base is glowing a bit, so it should be attached? Right? No, it cools and then when I release it from the mandrel most of my decoration comes off. I am getting so frustrated. Any help or advice?
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  #2  
Old 2017-09-17, 6:33am
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Sue in Maine Sue in Maine is offline
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Default

You may find help in these old posts:

http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...lying+stringer

LE has a search feature. In case you are not familiar with it, I'll explain. If you know, well, perhaps someone else doesn't know. Look at the RED line about 2" down from the top on the LE page. Read the labels... mine goes like this: User CP FAQ Member List/RAOGK.... keep going till you see "SEARCH" and click on it. It has a drop down. Type in the topic you are interested in learning more about. 4 letters or less need a wild card, which is an asterik... "red* beads" (for example). Hit the okay and LE will hunt up all past threads with those terms in it.

Another example: smootprint (NOT a real term but it's one I think only has one thread that I posted a long time ago about how to make matching size beads. The actual term I used was footprint smootprint... lol

Good luck with your stringer.

Sue
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  #3  
Old 2017-09-17, 7:10am
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yonil yonil is offline
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Is there any chance your stringer is a different COE than your base beads? The photos you had in your FB post looked like the stringer was pretty welded onto the bead, in which case I'm a little surprised it popped off.

If you left it fairly raised, it could have gotten cool faster than the rest of the bead, causing a lot of stress. It's good to give the whole applied stringer some heat, carefully make sure it is fully attached to the bead all the way around, and if you can do it without smashing the pattern, to gently heat and then marver the stringer a bit to really push it down onto the bead.
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  #4  
Old 2017-09-17, 10:49am
Chel826 Chel826 is offline
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I am not sure. I have even tried different stringers, etc. I think it's me.
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  #5  
Old 2017-09-17, 10:50am
Chel826 Chel826 is offline
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Thank you! I saw the search, but it wouldn't work. It wouldn't do anything. Thank you for getting me to the tutorials. Happiness
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  #6  
Old 2017-09-17, 7:17pm
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theglasspilcrow theglasspilcrow is offline
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Could it be your annealing schedule? What are you garaging at?
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  #7  
Old 2017-09-17, 8:23pm
lampworker1 lampworker1 is offline
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Even when I think my stringer is attached I bathe it in the flame for a bit longer. Keep trying you will get it!!
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  #8  
Old 2017-09-18, 4:20am
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Default Compatability

Stretch some glass out from whatever glass you will be using for your bead.
and another that you will be using as your stringer.
overlap the two and fuse them together then stretch it out straight.
If the new pull remains straight then the two are compatible
If it forms a coil as it cools or pops off they are not compatible.
You don't need to anneal it for this test.

Have fun, Wayne
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  #9  
Old 2017-09-18, 5:04am
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Default This may help.

The Steps Involved

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  #10  
Old 2017-09-18, 1:30pm
Bentley Bentley is offline
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Just like raised dots, stringers need to be welded onto the bead enough that there aren't any undercuts. That is about half way melted in. I feel your frustration.
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  #11  
Old 2017-09-18, 4:19pm
Chel826 Chel826 is offline
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Thanks Wayne. I have been torching for 2 months and that is excellent information.
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  #12  
Old 2017-09-18, 4:22pm
Chel826 Chel826 is offline
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Thank you everyone, my heat was not hot enough. I made 3 more today and gave them extra licks of heat and flash heated and left them at the end of the flame a little longer and they are sticking. YAY!

Bentley I feel your pain!
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  #13  
Old 2017-09-18, 5:34pm
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Chocake Chocake is offline
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Maybe your base bead is too cool when you start??
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  #14  
Old 2017-09-19, 7:44pm
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Speedslug Speedslug is offline
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Aye, finding that sweet spot of just barely not too much heat is the trickiest part of heat control.

It is also one of the first skills that will fade on you if have to take time off from torching for a few months.

Oh and transparent glass will be stiffer than opaque glass and will also need a kind of relearning of the heat control when applying stringer of one to the other and then switching them around.

It is almost a constant relearning curve.
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