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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2007-05-18, 10:06am
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ginkgoglass ginkgoglass is offline
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Default Ok, who wants to do a dildo tut?

You know you do! Brent, Heidi?

We need how to construct the item and how to anneal. I tried to make one this morning with a flower in the end and got some haze where the back of the head meets the shaft. I'm assuming you make your implosion and then add another clear rod to the back, melt off the other rod and round out the end. Is there a trick to this?

I'm feeling rather spunky today and want to try this out.
(making them that is . . )

I also have two guys across the street from me who are moving and for whom I want to make some cocktail swizzle sticks with lifelike helmets on the end (if you know what I mean) for a going away present .

Feel free to move this if it is in an inappropriate place.
Lana

Last edited by ginkgoglass; 2007-05-18 at 12:52pm.
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  #2  
Old 2007-05-18, 10:08am
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that would be such a laugh!
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  #3  
Old 2007-05-18, 11:02am
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This could be a first-- a tutorial in the bedroom to keep it out of view of "minor." Too funny!!!!

lol

Sue
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  #4  
Old 2007-05-18, 11:08am
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Great idea, Sue, as I know we have a 14 year old boy on LE that would probably be looking at it immediately if it were in the regular tutorials. Thanks, Angelique

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue in Maine View Post
This could be a first-- a tutorial in the bedroom to keep it out of view of "minor." Too funny!!!!

lol

Sue
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  #5  
Old 2007-05-18, 11:11am
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OOooh I wanna see this one too
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  #6  
Old 2007-05-18, 12:10pm
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me too!
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  #7  
Old 2007-05-18, 12:15pm
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well... it shouldn't be this hard now should it lol, ask your man to " model" roflol

I'd love to see a tutorial, just in case a friend of my niece's neighbour wants to order one
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  #8  
Old 2007-05-18, 12:20pm
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The most important thing to remember when doing a dildo is the pleasure aspect. Don't worry so much about making it look real. Anatomically correct heads aren't good in glass. The penis is soft tissue, so it bends and doesn't hurt the woman. In glass, these ridges are painful. You want to think about smooth flowing lines down the shaft. Nothing drastic. The same applies to bumps. Melt them almost all the way in.

The haze you are getting is probably devit. You can flame polish it out, but it's tough. Try not to over heat the glass when you're working it. Annealing is the same as with any other piece, but it's more important to have a slow ramp, because injury is bad in the nether region. I ramp down at 50 degrees per hour for a normal sized toy. 1-1.5" diameter. Hold at 1050 for a few hours, then ramp to 950 and hold for about an hour.
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  #9  
Old 2007-05-18, 12:47pm
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Thanks Brent,
Ok I've been working on a few this afternoon and managed to burn myself in three or four places on (on my hand, mind you!) Had a lot of fun though, and learned some things in the process.
This is one of the problems -- I had a beautiful floral implosion in the end of one and as I was working on the other end it cracked -- fixed it in the flame -- the other end cracked! How in the world do you keep everything hot enough? And Punties break off because the thing is heavy!



I think I am going to have to get some hot fingers for bigger work.

Suzanne, I do need a model but mine is 700 miles away!

Lana

Last edited by ginkgoglass; 2007-05-18 at 12:49pm.
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  #10  
Old 2007-05-18, 12:50pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginkogal View Post
How in the world do you keep everything hot enough?
Now that's a loaded question, considering the subject matter if I've ever heard one!
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  #11  
Old 2007-05-18, 12:58pm
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Yeah, there are tons of innuendo and puns:
-- I need hot fingers for bigger work (Lana)
-- Try not to overheat when you're working it (Brent)
-- It shouldn't be too hard now should it (Suzanne)

Hee Hee -- I'm so bad today! Lana
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  #12  
Old 2007-05-18, 1:08pm
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That one struck me particularly funny because I believe that question has been asked for years and years already...
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  #13  
Old 2007-05-18, 10:45pm
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lol Lana

I will definetly try to make a tiny one just for the fun of it ( yet again...pun)
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  #14  
Old 2007-05-19, 8:15am
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I remember a friend of mine used to sell dildos at shows. He had a sign that said "free installation" next to them.

Reportedly he had someone take him up on it...
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  #15  
Old 2007-05-19, 8:55am
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phew, is it getting hot in here! hee hee
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  #16  
Old 2007-05-19, 9:19pm
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I have wanted to try making one for ages. We have a roaring sex trade here in the nations capital - canberra. Legal Brothels, sex shops etc - custom dildos would do alright me thinks. Only problem is is the diameter clear I need is like $56 here for a 1.5 metre length!
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  #17  
Old 2007-05-19, 10:13pm
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I made one on my minor. it cracked but was pretty cool. I actually used a 10mm clear rod and gathered it into larger bumps along the shaft. It took 2 1/2 hours to make it. I think it cracked because I put it back into the flame too quickly to melt off the punty.
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  #18  
Old 2007-05-19, 10:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leanne View Post
I have wanted to try making one for ages. We have a roaring sex trade here in the nations capital - canberra. Legal Brothels, sex shops etc - custom dildos would do alright me thinks. Only problem is is the diameter clear I need is like $56 here for a 1.5 metre length!
Dang, that would be something to see. It IS hot in here.

Oh! You wouldn't use the whole length?
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  #19  
Old 2007-05-19, 11:28pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosemarie23 View Post
Dang, that would be something to see. It IS hot in here.

Oh! You wouldn't use the whole length?
bwahaha no I could get quite a few out of 1.5 metres!
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  #20  
Old 2007-05-22, 5:04am
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To avoid cracking I will at times work one end, then anneal it through a slow cycle. Next torch session I will finish up the other end and anneal again. When working with large dia. rod 20mm + I find this is the surest way for me to avoid the cracking problem.

Dave
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  #21  
Old 2007-05-22, 6:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keltik View Post
To avoid cracking I will at times work one end, then anneal it through a slow cycle. Next torch session I will finish up the other end and anneal again. When working with large dia. rod 20mm + I find this is the surest way for me to avoid the cracking problem.

Dave
So you work one end at a time??? *SNORT*
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  #22  
Old 2007-05-24, 1:40pm
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Someone here has the pics I modeled for a few years back when these where all the rage. I just can't remember who tho. Heidi prehaps?
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  #23  
Old 2007-05-24, 1:56pm
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dildo tut
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  #24  
Old 2007-05-25, 9:52pm
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if anyone has a link to one of these post it or pm me please
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  #25  
Old 2007-05-27, 8:29pm
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Now there is a great fund raiser for LE!
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  #26  
Old 2007-05-29, 2:46am
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i knew i was missing the point by starting my boro work doing marbles!!!! where's the tut!!!!!! we want a tut, we want a tut!!!!!
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  #27  
Old 2007-06-03, 4:47pm
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dildo tut! dildo tut!
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  #28  
Old 2007-06-10, 4:08pm
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Default ok, some questions

ok since there's not takers for the dildo tut -- I'll ask some questions . . .

Once I made an implosion in the head, I rounded out the end and puntied up to it. Then i popped it in the kiln and worked on the other end, bending it slightly and placing dots on it, well heated in order to make it smooth.

Then I puntied up to the end and brought the head out of the kiln.

I brought both pieces (the head and the raw end) up to molten and attached them together.

My questions are these:
1. How do you make sure the head is properly attached to the shaft, breaking off there could be a disaster.

2. Brent mentioned the annealing schedule for these items. I raised my hold time for annealing to 1 hour. Is that adequate?

3. Should I anneal longer?

4. Any other tips?


Thanks, Lana

PS smutboy, you "modeled" one of these? Wheres the pics? Hopefully of the dildo . . .

Last edited by ginkgoglass; 2007-06-10 at 4:13pm.
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  #29  
Old 2007-06-11, 6:55pm
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I would definetly think that 1 hour is too little. I would do atleast all day.
tap the head on the table. If it falls off it isnt attached properly. If you can see a line or tell where it was attached- it wasnt attached properly.
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  #30  
Old 2007-08-12, 2:33pm
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I was talking to Susan of Glass Alchemy yesterday and it reminded me of this thread. She was saying that an important consideration that a lot of people forget is to SLOW DOWN your cooling curve when annealing larger pieces. With beads we can ramp down pretty fast and it's fine, but larger pieces need to ramp down much more slowly... a good soak time is ruined if too-rapid cooling introduces stress back into the piece. I haven't made one yet but she suggested referring to the annealing cycles in the Dunham book before I do.
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